Looking for a little sharpness advice

[Kurt_Horne]

• NIKON CORPORATION NIKON Z 6_2
• NIKKOR Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S Z TC-2.0x
• ƒ/6.3
• 400mm
• 1/2000s
• ISO 800
• Sat, 08 February 2025 1:47 PM

Sometimes it seems to me sharpness is luck, but it shouldn't be. Too often parts or whole elements of my image are not sharp. Many time I can narrow down the cause, too low of an f relative to the distance, focus points grabbing onto something else, too low of a SS, or just really crappy light. Occasionally I am stumped and this is one example where I thought I'd reach out to more experienced individuals to see what they think and if there's something to adjust in technique etc.

All the details I can think to share:
- Nikon Z6 ii with 70-200 Nikkor lens on a Nikkor 2x
- Hand held at 400mm, spot metering, auto ISO (800), f 6.3, and 1/2000 ss
- A few hours after sunrise on an overcast day
- Subject was still, perched in a tree about 25 meters away
- Single point AFC
- Back button focus
- Point placed square in the middle of the subject, not gonna try and hit the head when that far away and hand holding
- Cropped about 20% of the image out.

The light and the composition are not that interesting the point in posting is more to illustrate the unfocused face and eye, and this was a load of sharpening applied. Welcome any thoughts/advice!

 

[Jonathan Ashton]

Kurt several points spring to mind:
1 Single focus point in the center of the bird - I would focus on the bird's eye.
2. Spot metering - some people like it I woulod go for Matrix metering and set the highlights to visible in the viewfinder and rear screen, increase exposure until the highlights flash then wind back a little until they stop.
3. 1/2000 sec should be more than good to stop a static bird
4. 20% crop should be acceptable but try to minimise whenever possible ideally no crop.
5. Overcast day just after sunlight - was this "good light" to show detail?
6. Does your camera have image detection for birds? If so I would try it.
7. Auto ISO in these circumstances would almost certainly result in auto underexposure, the camera sensor sees a lot of sky which is relatively bright compared to the subject.

Hope this helps.

 

[Kurt_Horne]

Kurt several points spring to mind:
1 Single focus point in the center of the bird - I would focus on the bird's eye.
2. Spot metering - some people like it I woulod go for Matrix metering and set the highlights to visible in the viewfinder and rear screen, increase exposure until the highlights flash then wind back a little until they stop.
3. 1/2000 sec should be more than good to stop a static bird
4. 20% crop should be acceptable but try to minimise whenever possible ideally no crop.
5. Overcast day just after sunlight - was this "good light" to show detail?
6. Does your camera have image detection for birds? If so I would try it.
7. Auto ISO in these circumstances would almost certainly result in auto underexposure, the camera sensor sees a lot of sky which is relatively bright compared to the subject.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Jonathan, some good things to try.

 

[Andreas Liedmann]

HI Kurt ... good to raise a question if something is off for your taste .
THe problem here is ( for a judgement ) that the subject is quite dark , so next time you might post at least a decently exposed subject , just my take.
The shooting info is quite detailed .... and is leaving me puzzled why the shot is not decently sharp as posted ???!!!

I would agree with Jon´s thoughts for the most part , as there are always some different ways of shooting routines with every photographer .
And would add that the whole subject appears soft with no real fine details rendered

DOF should be no reason at that distance with the used kit !!!!!

For me the twigs in the front on the RHS do appear sharper than the subject , for whatever reason .

Not sure if this helps .... just giving you my personal thoughts

TFS Andreas

 

[Kurt_Horne]

HI Kurt ... good to raise a question if something is off for your taste .
THe problem here is ( for a judgement ) that the subject is quite dark , so next time you might post at least a decently exposed subject , just my take.
The shooting info is quite detailed .... and is leaving me puzzled why the shot is not decently sharp as posted ???!!!

I would agree with Jon´s thoughts for the most part , as there are always some different ways of shooting routines with every photographer .
And would add that the whole subject appears soft with no real fine details rendered

DOF should be no reason at that distance with the used kit !!!!!

For me the twigs in the front on the RHS do appear sharper than the subject , for whatever reason .

Not sure if this helps .... just giving you my personal thoughts

TFS Andreas

Thanks Andreas, the image was just for illustration of the sharpness issue, I agree there are lots of other things which don't make this a 'keeper'. Not the least of which is subject being too dark

I too was puzzled as to why the sharpness wasn't greater. I can try spot focus on the head, but with the distance, shooting angle, kit weight, and handholding I find it hard to ping on something that small with a spot focus. I Thought the f choice and distance would mean whole bird in focus even if focus point on body.

I had a small fear the issue was due to a camera mishap a few weeks back. Without getting into the torrid details, a bumpy ride to my destination meant my camera was in 3 pieces on arrival, body, lens, and 2x. Nothing appeared visibly broken or damaged apart from the disconnections. After reconnection everything was operating but I feared there may have been some subtle damage.

I hope it is more as Jonathan suggested that the overcast day was the primary culprit.

 

[Steve Kaluski]

Kurt, its an amalgamation of both your Exif (camera setting for the shot) & camera set-up, hopefully both are now rectified so next time you will have nailed it.

 

[Andreas Liedmann]

Oh I would go and get the kit checked ....
How can get the lens off the camera ???? With my Canon gear I have to press a knob and turn the lens ... before it does come off the body !!!
Even in lousy weather .... one should get decent sharpness at your used settings , IMHO . Maybe not as sharp as if the weather was great .

Just my thoughts