Using Audio for Photographing Birds: The Basics.

[Daniel Cadieux]

Point one is true. By singing a territory is defined and defended. Important business, as only a territory of sufficient size will allow survival of the owner and his offspring. That's also why no biologist would advise to shoot a male from an adjacent territory, as the claims are already stacked out and a working system is in place.

Point two can be answered by looking at it this way: By playing a tape recording we add another competitor into the picture. One that can not be beat, since it sings louder (thanks to amp and speakers) and more enduring (as long as the battery lasts) than the real thing. There is a fine line and if we overdo it the overpowered bird will eventually do what this whole mechanisms of territoriality is all about, it will give way to the superbird with "proven" superiour biological fitness. Problem is that superbirdy will not breed and maintain the species.

Tape recordings can be put to good use (bird counts, surveys, birdphotography) and do no harm if used knowledgable and wisely. Used without some knowledge about bird behaviour and biology a lot of harm can be done (during bird counts, surveys, birdphotography). Birds may leave territory, abandon nests and nestlings, neglect care for their offspring and themselves.

So if one needs to ask what songs to play, when to play them, and where, they shouldn't be doing it as there is obviously a lack of the know how to make it a save business (people doing bird counts and surveys mostly have this kind of knowledge, and so do a lot of birdphotographers).
However, for me there is a critical difference between a photographer taking pictures of birds, and a birdphotographer.

Ulli

No argument from me either. Ethical considerations are very important, as mentioned in my article. Considering the last point you make though (especially which I've bolded in the quote above), I would rather someone ask those questions and be guided with options rather than just go ahead blindly. The person/people asking questions is/are being responsible instead of remaining silent in doubt...

Re: Photographer taking pictutres of birds vs bird photographer. Is this a critical difference as far as using audio? Is one more justified than the other, or less? I'm not trying to be argumentative, just being curious about the statement.

 

[Daniel Cadieux]

I do carry a Kwik Camo Photography Blind as I am walking around. Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't. I honestly can't say I see a big difference. Maybe I'm using it incorrectly. Any tips?

Occasionally I use a real blind (one that is more like a tent) but I don't like being inside of it and having my vision limited.

I don't have experience with the quick camo blind so I can't really offer advice with that. I think I'd feel claustrophobic inside one of those!! I do use a "tent" pop-up blind and love it. I partially unzip the side windows so I can see out the sides (and let a bit of breeze flow through). I've personally had much more luck with a blind than none, especially with the warbler family. The times I don't use a blind I do try to remain very low and still, and will often hide behind tall grasses, or fallen logs, or partially hidden behind a tree. Just try to avoid standing straight up and completely out in the open.

 

[Henry Domke]

Using Blinds to Photograph Birds

I do use a "tent" pop-up blind and love it.

How do you carry that in the field?

I find that carrying the camera gear is challenging enough, it weighs about 30 pounds.

Also, what method do you use to get to the birds? Do you select a promising habitat, set up and wait?

The method I use is to walk around until I hear the bird song. Then I set down my tripod and pull up the bird song on my iPhone and see if they respond. Any suggestions?

 

[Daniel Cadieux]

The blind I use is very light, and folds-up paper thin and compact - I just carry it over my shoulder. It sets up in seconds.

If I just walk around I don't bother bringing the blind as it is too cumbersome even with its small size. On days that I do decide to sit in a blind I go to pre-selected habitats that I know have a good number of birds and different species. I also know which species will be found there and those are my target ones for the outing. There are a few locally that are ideal that I had pre-scouted. I just set it up in a good spot relative to light angle (and set-up a perch with a good clean BG). Sit in it and listen for what is close and hope an individual will cooperate - which is not always the case!

 

[Ulli Hoeger]

I can go to a baseball game and take photos. I don't know much about the game, still I may get a few good ones by luck or shooting numbers. I am a photographer shooting sports, not a sport photographer.
I would be more successful if I know the game, knowing what is going on and what could be going to happen. I would be able to anticipate action and potentially interesting photo ops. However, I will likely not interfere with the game or endanger player, and if I will find out by being told or even kicked out from the stadium. Now transfer this to a horseback riding arena and you add the potential of someone in front of the camera getting hurt because of me shooting horse pictures not knowing what to do and what not to do. Here being a horse photographer will not only yield better images, it also will protect my subjects -and me.

Same applies to bird and wildlife photographers, knowing your subject improves your photographic success rate, protect your subject, and -less a problem with birds- protect you from your subjects (bears, tigers, other large and/or potentially dangerous critters).

Wildlife has limited ability to let us know if we are about to cross the line or already crossed it. That's why we need to know our subjects to prevent harm to them and harm to us.

That's why I make this difference between photographing something and being a something photographer and can only wish that photographers interested in shooting something will eventually become somehtingphotographers by learning about the needs of their favorite subjects and respecting those.

Ulli

 

[Henry Domke]

Advice on using Blinds for bird photography

On days that I do decide to sit in a blind I go to pre-selected habitats ...

I haven't gotten the knack for shooting from blinds yet. Perhaps you can offer some advice. Please let me know what a typical scenario might be.

1. Do you hike out to a preselected spot early in the morning and set up and immediately get in the blind and wait?

2. How long do you typically stay in the blind?

3. Do you sit in a chair? Kneel?

4. Any other advice for using blinds?

 

[Ulli Hoeger]

Questions #2 is the easy one.
You stay as long as you need or want to, or as long as you can stand it. It will get very warm and stuffy in those things -something to consider when setting up, i.e. find a shady spot to avoid direct sun. It can become very uncomfortable, so the answer also depends on your personal pain threshold and/or degree of obsession.

Best is if the birds don't see you entering or leaving the blind, that will make them suspicious. A common suggestion is to have someone walk you to the blind and back, if you have to take or leave position while being watched by the them. Birds seem not to care that two became or one became two.

Also a freshly set-up blind may be suspicious for a while as it is new element in the familiar scenery. More a problem with the local population than with transients, and less a problem in always changing habitats (beach, salt marsh) than in static ones (forest, backyard). If the spot is safe you may want to consider leaving a blind for a while, or construct one from branches and camo netting.

If you sit, kneel, or lay down depends on the kind of blind (head and floor space) and the shooting angle you want. Most commercial blinds are made for hunters and the peek holes are on chair level height. For low level shoots some folks cut extra holes in their blinds. Chair blinds are somewhat limited in options, so I would look into the ones a la doghouse/outhouse for mobile use, or the option to construct a more permanent structure in a good spot using military surplus netting. Burlap used to wrap up plants for the winter is also very useful (cheap and biodegradable) for constructing such fixed blinds.

Other advice?! Bring fluids to stay hydrated and alert in your hole, some snacks will not hurt as well. Also consider ways to dispose your biological waste products in case you don't have spincter muscles made from steel and the will power of a tibetan monk. If you gotta go you gotta go. Depending on location bug repellent is a must as the blood suckers will find a way inside. Don't set up on ant burrows or ground wasp nest entrances as designated hides don't have a sewn on floor like camping tents. Try not to fall asleep -you will miss the action, AND DON'T SMOKE IN THE BLIND (you may end up roasted when dry stuff underneath or the blind itself catch a spark).

Otherwise have fun -and it can be a lot of fun

Ulli

 

[Daniel Cadieux]

Ulli, thanks for the excellent post. Pretty much how I do it too, except I've never knowimgly had a problem with a suspicious newly set-up blind in the woods being a detriment or birds seeing me go in or out of my blind but I've heard this could be something to think about. I do try to stay put in it as long as I can though as I would agree that going in and out very often would be counter-productive.

For Henry's questions:

1. On days that I decide to do the blind thing, yes.

2. See Ulli's post. I'm very patient and I can last for hours in a blind. Needless to say the audio is off most of that time (just in case people wonder...)

3. I mostly sit on a tri-legged folding canvas stool. With my "Outhouse" blind I'm at the perfect height to see out the open window when sitting on that. For ground dwelling birds I may opt to lie down on the ground, lens pointing out beneath the bottom of the blind. Keep your shirt and pant openings tucked in to avoid accidents...nothing worse or more surprising than having a creepy crawler suddenly scurrying on your skin!!

4. Again, see Ulli's post. I'll often bring a small foldable table and small cooler to keep some snacks and drinks at close range - but this is easier to carry out in the field when I'm stationed close (walking distance) to the folks' cottge or not hiking far away from the car:S3:.

 

[Henry Domke]

Getting Birds to perch where you want

I'm not having luck getting birds to perch where I want. They always seem to want to hang back in a thicket. That makes for messy backgrounds or for branches in front of the bird.

Suggestions?

Despite the messy background I was able to get this picture of a Prairie Warbler eating a bee yesterday:

 

[Arthur Morris]

Get a copy of Alan Murphy's Guide to Songbird Set-ups; he teaches you how to get the bird to land where you want it. He can get them to land on his business card...

 

[Henry Domke]

Focusing tips for Warblers

How do you focus when shooting Warblers?
1. Do you let the camera pick the AF Sensor or do you do it? I manually select the central AF sensor. If I let the camera auto-select the AF point I find that it usually picks the wrong thing, such as a twig.

2. Do you use Servo vs One-Shot? I tend to use One-Shot since I can make sure where my selected focus point is.

3. Do you autofocus and than manually fine tune for the eye? I aim for the eye but warblers often move fast and I am lucky to get the bird in the frame and when I do I often end up focusing on the belly or wing.

4. How often do you use Extension tubes when shooting warblers? I find that I don't use them that much because it seems that I always end up wanting to focus farther away at times and the extension tube won't let me.

I'm using the Canon 600 f/4 with a 1.4 teleconverter with the 1D MkIV (which has a 1.3X crop factor)

Thanks!

 

[Henry Domke]

Guide to Songbird Set-ups

Get a copy of Alan Murphy's Guide to Songbird Set-ups; he teaches you how to get the bird to land where you want it. He can get them to land on his business card...

Artie,
I do have his book and it is great. However warblers don't seem to respond to the tricks that he uses for feeder birds. At least they have not for me yet.

 

[Arthur Morris]

Henry, I seem to recall that you purchased a copy of ABP II; am I correct? Pretty much all of your questions in Pane #71 are answered there....

 

[Arthur Morris]

Artie, I do have his book and it is great. However warblers don't seem to respond to the tricks that he uses for feeder birds. At least they have not for me yet.

Henry, what has worked for me (on the rare occasions that I have tried to tape warblers) is to set up the speaker below a very attractive perch with a relatively distant background and then play the tape for 30 seconds or so until the bird responds by coming towards the tape. Then I shut off the tape and wait. Using this technique I have gotten lucky on occasion.... Here is what I mean:

 

[Henry Domke]

THE ART OF BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY II

Henry, I seem to recall that you purchased a copy of ABP II; am I correct?

Yes, I did buy that. Unfortunately the disc has been misplaced. I need to order a replacement disc.

 

[Henry Domke]

Henry, what has worked for me is to set up the speaker below a very attractive perch with a relatively distant background and then play the tape for 30 seconds or so until the bird responds by coming towards the tape. Then I shut off the tape and wait.

That is close to what I am doing now but I don't stop the tape after 30-seconds. What is the advantage of stopping?

One problem I am having is that the birds don't want to go to perches that I select. They always want to hang back in a thicket. Suggestions?

 

[Daniel Cadieux]

How do you focus when shooting Warblers?
1. Do you let the camera pick the AF Sensor or do you do it? I manually select the central AF sensor. If I let the camera auto-select the AF point I find that it usually picks the wrong thing, such as a twig.

I pick it. Central Sensor for these fast moving subjects. If the warbler gives me time I will then recompose.

2. Do you use Servo vs One-Shot? I tend to use One-Shot since I can make sure where my selected focus point is.

Servo, but I use the back * button to focus so I just let go of the button to lock focus if needed (and to recompose)

3. Do you autofocus and than manually fine tune for the eye? I aim for the eye but warblers often move fast and I am lucky to get the bird in the frame and when I do I often end up focusing on the belly or wing.

Autofocus on the eye. Warblers don't give you time to manually fine-tune. If you stop down a bit, light permitting, (e.g. f/8) than you can aim at the neck/breast/shoulder and still get a sharp eye.

4. How often do you use Extension tubes when shooting warblers? I find that I don't use them that much because it seems that I always end up wanting to focus farther away at times and the extension tube won't let me.

Never (for warblers).

I'm using the Canon 600 f/4 with a 1.4 teleconverter with the 1D MkIV (which has a 1.3X crop factor)

Thanks!

Hope this helps...

 

[Daniel Cadieux]

That is close to what I am doing now but I don't stop the tape after 30-seconds. What is the advantage of stopping?

Stopping prevents putting the subject in distress. I personally go for a few minutes at a time, then stop. Try again 2-3 times and then quit on that particular subject if it doesn't respond.

One problem I am having is that the birds don't want to go to perches that I select. They always want to hang back in a thicket. Suggestions?

Try setting up further away from the thicket. If the bird is curious enough to come out and has only the one (or two) set-up perch(es) to land on that will put chances on your side.

______________________________

 

[John Chardine]

Haven't looked here for a while. Lots of good information. Once small myth has crept in regarding bird behaviour so I'll nip it in the bud:

It is not necessarily true that males are having territorial disputes all day long. Typically, a piece of ground where songbirds are nesting will be a patchwork of more or less non-overlapping territories. Males hold these territories and defend them normally by singing at different points in the territory out to the boundary. This is a relatively stable system in that territory holders are aware of their neighbours, where they are, where the boundaries are and even who they are- individual males will have slightly different songs that can be recognised by other males. Once territories are set up after arrival in the spring, males do not need to engage in territorial disputes all day long. Think of it like a gentleman's club. Disputes in the form of chases, fights and other aggressive interactions can be very costly and tend to be avoided in favour of symbolic fighting in the form of singing.

Young males breeding for the first time have to first find a territory and they may have to compete with an established male territory holder to gain it. This can lead to disputes from mild to fierce. The number of young males looking for territories depends on a lot of things. In expanding populations with lots of recruits, there may be lots of males on the lookout and territory holders may have to work hard to defend their territory. In declining populations- and sadly many songbirds are declining- the number of new recruits may be small and territory holders may have it easy.

 

[Enrique Patino]

there is an article published today in the local paper that is fairly "neutral" on this topic, but perhaps worth reading for those interested...

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2015072324_birdcalls17m.html